nineveh_uk: Illustration that looks like Harriet Vane (Harriet)
[personal profile] nineveh_uk
Fortunately, so do flight paths, as overland would take a while. I am going there in September, so if anyone has recommendations for things to do and see I'd be very grateful to hear them. I have some guidebooks and will read them, but can't say I know much about the modern city.

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Date: 2012-08-15 08:52 pm (UTC)
oursin: Brush the Wandering Hedgehog by the fire (Default)
From: [personal profile] oursin
It's quite some while since I've been to Rome, but I do remember that there are catacombs that one can visit (though I think you have to take the guided tour). Also that there were 2 or 3 former aristocratic mansions with art collections that were interesting - one had a huge ceiling painting on some classical motif with the then head of the house v portly in a toga as part of the scene. The Vatican has some amazing stuff (and an awful lot of fairly meh stuff as well) and struck me as a ripoff in lots of ways (everything cost more than it did elsewhere, not just the entrance fee) but also pretty much worth it. Also, but it may have improved now, it had really weird opening hours (though that applied fairly generally, and again, things may now be more in line with wider Euro-practice).

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-15 09:46 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bookwormsarah.livejournal.com
Ostia Antica, the Roman port. It is reachable by train from Rome (less than half an hour if I remember correctly) and is incredible. You can walk up the stairs of Roman blocks of flats and stand on the roof terraces, walk down streets of ancient shops, see the mosaics outside the shipping offices...

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Date: 2012-08-16 04:10 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] azdak.livejournal.com
Oh wow, that sounds fantastic! Now I want to go!

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Date: 2012-08-16 08:43 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bookwormsarah.livejournal.com
Lots of pictures and footage here! (http://www.ostia-antica.org/)

There is a church built over the ruins of a temple somewhere in the centre of Rome - I'll ask Mum where it was. You can also visit the church with the Bocca della Verita (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bocca_della_Verit%C3%A0) as seen in Roman Holiday.

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 04:25 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nineveh-uk.livejournal.com
How long do you absolutely have to have there? I'm already keen on a day outside the city for Villa d'Este and Hadrian's villa at Tivoli, so I'm not sure how much more I'm going to be able to fairly swing against competing demands!

I need to see if I can watch Roman Holiday before I go.

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 06:27 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] azdak.livejournal.com
Gosh, that looks terrific! Thank you for the links!

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 04:25 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nineveh-uk.livejournal.com
Rome was not initally my preferred choice, but I couldn't think of anywhere better and now I'm reading about it, it looks great!

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 08:29 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nineveh-uk.livejournal.com
That does sound fantastic!. I think there will have to be some negotiating with the friend I'm going with as to the proportion of ancient/modern, as I'm decidedly on the former side at the moment!

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 10:11 am (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
I was there for only four days, so obviously others will have better tips:
- Georgina Masson's guide to Rome is hands-down the best guidebook ever! I actually used my parents' old book (from 1972) when I visited Rome in 2010, and it held up remarkably. No joke, but the Forum and the Sistine Chapel really haven't changed in the last 40 years (although some of the Vatican Museum has) - and you're intelligent enough not to need a paint-by-the-numbers guidebook.
- We stayed in the Trastevere neighbourhood, and it was lovely. Not too touristy but a little bit hip. A lovely place to wander around. Worth a morning if you aren't staying there.
- Castel Sant'Angelo is Rome's Tower of London. It doesn't meet US* standards of tourist attraction up-keep and safety, and going there in the late afternoon in the winter was very atmospheric. I wasn't quite convinced that I wouldn't open a tower door and find something that had been hidden for hundreds of years. It's close to the Vatican, and I gave St. Peter's a miss, so managed to see the Vatican in the morning and Castel Sant'Angelo in the afternoon. Ice cream in between, of course.

*I haven't been to the UK for ages so I don't know what the standard is there.

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 04:27 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nineveh-uk.livejournal.com
Thanks for the recs. I fancy CSA because of "Tosca" (bit sad), and I do enjoy atmospheric. And there must be much ice-cream.

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 10:53 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] alitheapipkin.livejournal.com
I've only spent a weekend there but
- a walking tour of the ruins etc is lovely
- if you go to the Vatican think carefully about how attached you are to seeing the Sistine Chapel. We had limited time in the museum and had to more or less walk past everything else to get to it before we had to leave and I really wish we hadn't bothered :( It was full to the brim with people completely ignoring the silence and no flash photography signs and had zero atmosphere. St Peter's Basilica is beautiful and has way more atmosphere.

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 04:29 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nineveh-uk.livejournal.com
I'm getting lots of mixed reports about the Vatican. I expect we'll probably go, but it's useful to know the downsides. Ruins, on the other hand, I adore, and the only problem will be in fairly sharing between ancient and modern.

I join you in hating people who ignore the signs.

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 07:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] alitheapipkin.livejournal.com
I think the Vatican museum is probably lovely if it's quiet but I think it is almost always absolutely *heaving*, which makes it hot and thoroughly frustrating, especially if you aren't tall enough to see over peoples' heads.

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 07:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lareinenoire.livejournal.com
That was exactly my experience at the Vatican--I'd probably have enjoyed it a great deal more if it had been less crowded. My fault for being an awful summer tourist. ;)

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 08:20 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nineveh-uk.livejournal.com
I am hoping September will be quieter than high summer, but have no hopes for actual quiet!

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-17 12:19 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] alitheapipkin.livejournal.com
It will probably be quieter than it was when I went in July but yeah. I think the only way you get actual quiet is by being a trainee priest or some such and getting to visit when it's closed to the public like the Boy's Best Man.

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 07:29 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lareinenoire.livejournal.com
Wrong city, but it's the closest I have. :)

I remember visiting the most amazing restaurant in Rome when I was there in 2004--Trattoria der Pallaro (http://www.trattoriaderpallaro.com/) (recommended by Rick Steves*). It was basically impossible to find so we were starving by the time we actually got there, but the food was fantastic, and at that time you could get a five-course set menu for €20, so it was one of the cheapest meals we had. The real standout was fresh strawberry juice with dessert.

We did most of the major touristy places (Coliseum, Forum, Vatican Museum/St. Peter's) during that trip. It was interesting and I enjoyed it at the time, but I've never felt particularly compelled to revisit any of them. Although now that I think about it, part of what keeps me away is probably the fact that I haven't yet managed to visit Rome in a month other than July, which is possibly the worst time of year to visit Rome. Maybe if I ever manage to convince the Vatican archives to let me look at things, I can arrange it for winter. ;)

When in September will you be gone? I'll be in Oxford from Thursday 13 to Sunday 16 September and would love to see you.

* I seem to remember this was the first time I'd ever used one of Rick Steves' books and I've been sticking to him and Lonely Planet ever since.

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 08:26 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nineveh-uk.livejournal.com
My holiday icon is Norway in winter... I need a summer one.

September should be better than July... We'll see. Thanks for the restaurant rec, I'll definitely look into that. Likewise Rick Steves, who I've never heard of but will investigate. Re. revisiting, I think that of all the amazing places I've seen, one of the things that really determines whether I'd like to go back isn't just interest, but atmosphere.

I'm returning late on the 14th and will be about on the 15th/16th so definitely keen to meet up.

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-16 09:37 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Seconding the rec for Rick Steves. We did the classic touristy stuff, with kids, last Christmas Rick's free podcasts about Rome were great for the kids, and his book very useful re: things like tickets and times for entry.
Gelato of course. We stayed near the Vatican as it was so much cheaper than in Central Rome.
We prefer winter to summer (don't like heat much) and the Vatican museum
Was relatively uncrowded.

M

(no subject)

Date: 2012-08-17 06:53 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] maggietn1.livejournal.com
Fontana delle Tartarughe, Piazza Mattei - I make a point of revisting it every time I am in Rome. And the Jewish district is beautiful and relatively quiet too. A lovely city for walking but September can still be very warm, take a paper fan with you! http://www.romaviva.com/Piazza-Navona/piazzamattei_tortoise_fountain.htm (http://www.romaviva.com/Piazza-Navona/piazzamattei_tortoise_fountain.htm)http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/italy/ghetto.htm



























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