nineveh_uk: Illustration that looks like Harriet Vane (Default)
One day I will go on a holiday and come back less tired than when I went away*. It is a long time since I have just gone for a day at the beach, which is silly as I enjoy a day at the beach. On the other hand, filling every waking minute does mean that though not a lot of reading gets done, I am thoroughly mentally refreshed by concentrating on doing things outside the daily grind, which is excellent. Likewise excellent is that I now possess grappa, a sort of pistachio version of Nutella, and a silk scarf. The broken/sprained little toe is less excellent. Fortunately after the first bout of sudden agony, a sticky bandage and exchanging sandals for lace-ups reduced it to a nuisance rather than a major inconvenience, and it improved during the week so I am now fairly sure that it is only the tendons. Also less excellent was the Italian air traffic controllers’ strike, something that really makes one appreciate the value of flying with BA who seemed pretty good about making rearranging things their problem.

Anyway, it was good fun. I saw lots of interesting things including impressive art** and beautiful scenery, 8 dead bodies***, and numerous churches, enjoyed some better weather, ate some excellent food**** and ice cream (top marks to the bergamot and marron glaces flavours), drank cocktails, took a plane, train, bus, underground, but not alas tram. It was a bit cloudy for much of the time (except with good timing when I was on the duomo roof) so I am not at all tanned and did not swim, but I hope I have managed to synthesise a bit of vitamin D to see me through until May.

Photos under the cut )
nineveh_uk: Illustration that looks like Harriet Vane (Default)
I had a great holiday. The scenery was beautiful, the weather was fantastic - sunny, but not over warm, with the occasional snow shower to keep things fresh and not too much wind - the sun was high and daylight hours long, the northern lights managed to be out on my last night at the same time as me*, the skiing facilities were brilliant, I was reasonably competent, my hotel room was very pleasant**, and I had some very nice food. The restorative powers of a large apple doughnut are remarkable. A week off work in which I haven’t even been able to do my unpacking is a small price to pay***.

Some random comments:

• Seldom have I seen such a large concentration of moustache-wearers. Finnish men appear to develop a compulsion aged c. 50 to go out and grow one.

• It is vital as a British skier in Finland to accept from the start that you will be comparatively rubbish. Then when you are overtaken by 7 year olds, 70 year olds, women with multiple babies in a sledge, and blind people (not joking), you will not be downhearted, and instead can enjoy overtaking 5 year olds, 75 year olds, and the rare Scandinavian who doesn’t like downhills.

• I am going to set up the Lapland Airport Coach Safari Company. On the way from the airport to my hotel I saw a fox (red) slinking in the edge of the wood (looking exactly like this print), and an arctic hare, and on the way back to the airport, two reindeer. They are paler in colour than I had anticipated. I also saw a second hare (from my hotel bedroom window) and a capercaillie. Birdlife was otherwise disappointing – magpies and great tits do not count, and the Siberian jays for which the reason is known must have been on holiday in Siberia.

• I was quite pleased with my skiing. I did c. 125km over 6 days, plus a day on the downhill pistes (advantage of an evening flight home). I wasn’t as fast on the flat as I’d have liked, but I definitely improved my XC downhill confidence and technique, which I'd set as a personal goal.

Some photographs! )
nineveh_uk: Illustration that looks like Harriet Vane (Default)
Back at work, in the rain, after a brilliant week in the company of [livejournal.com profile] azdak walking in the area around Altaussee. It was sunny, surprisingly full of people in dirndls and lederhoser, and with absolutely beautiful scenery below the cut )
nineveh_uk: Illustration that looks like Harriet Vane (Default)
Is what I absolutely did not write on my Uzbekistan customs form. I successfully navigated Tashkent airport twice, and got home on Tuesday night. The house is now strewn with laundry, and I face the mammoth task of sorting and labelling my photographs.

I had a brilliant trip. It was blisteringly hot, but on the plus side that meant it was low season and the sites weren't crowded. Samarkand lives up to its billing, and some of the monuments are magnificent, one fantastic scene after another, but as well as the notable sites I had a lot of fun just walking around or people-watching from the window of a mini-bus. It was my first time not only in Central Asia, but in an ex-Soviet state** and the combination was fascinating, not least the clothing which was wildly different from that described in the guidebooks. The fashion, of course, is very different from the UK, with a lot more gold teeth, but the recommendations for conservative clothing and long sleeves (I'd ignored the latter anyway) were considerably off the mark; if I'd followed guidebook advice, I'd have been wearing more than all but two women I saw in the entire country***. Food and infrastructure were both better than I had expected (though my expectations were not high), but it is not a land that goes in for puddings: I think I've had my watermelon ration for the next ten years.

Have some photographs: Read more... )
nineveh_uk: Illustration that looks like Harriet Vane (Default)
I have not got a tan, have got chocolate orange spread, a litre of vodka, very tired feet, and a new jacket. I also have extremely disturbing news: the Dalek invasion is well under way.

Even in the heart of the Vatican, their influence is blatant:

IMG_2790

Is the truth about why Galileo Galilei was imprisoned for heresy suddenly more disturbing than we had suspected?

IMG_3095
nineveh_uk: Illustration that looks like Harriet Vane (Default)
It is fair to say that when Gerard de Nerval* wrote Rends-moi le Pausilippe et la mer d'Italie he was not thinking of the modern day Bay of Naples**. The urban sprawl of Naples is no prettier from the air than any modern day industrial city of +1 million, with added fires (I assume burning waste) and the air quality from the high points*** is visibly awful****. But pop over the mountains to the south and you hit the Amalfi Coast, and it is a different story. A pretty expensive story that makes one grateful to have most meals included, I admit, and a story that makes me think "If I belonged to the super-rich, I'd pick a spot with better beaches", but the scenery is undeniably splendid, as is the food, the views, and the heat. I cannot complain about the heat: it was overwarm for the time of year leading to much stickiness, but it was well worth it.

Anyway, I had a fabulous time in Italy. My walking shoes fit. Pompeii is great (a proper city). Herculaneum is great (decorative taste scarily Victorian). Ravello is great (the views). The Path of the Gods is great (steps. More steps. Yet more steps). And, of course, the ice-cream and prosecco. Let us pass over the point at which, like a Chalet School girl, I tore a great rent in my linen cut-offs and had to staple them together thanks to the kindness of the Tabac owner so that I was fit to wander round Amalfi without needing to borrow an unseasonable jumper/towel/shirt to tie round my waist.

Have some photographs under the cut )
nineveh_uk: Illustration that looks like Harriet Vane (Default)
Back from a delightful holiday in Austria, involving wine, food, the magnificent art and dubious translations* of the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna, and the company of the splendid [livejournal.com profile] azdak, who bore up nobly under questioning as to when we could next expect her to produce some Wimseyfic. The main event involved a three day point-to-point walk, with luggage transported separately, round the Ötscher, which is a mountain in Lower Austria that as far as I can make out from the guidebooks no-one in the English-speaking world has heard of. I certainly hadn’t. I was happy to be educated, for the walk around, and also over the top, is delightful, involving some impressive canyons, a lot of trees, and (optional) a very big ridge that was brilliant, notwithstanding that in going down rather than up it we technically did it in the wrong direction.

Cut for pictures )

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